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June 10, 1999

For Serbs in Kosovo, Frustration and Anger


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    By STEVEN ERLANGER

    LAPUSNIK, Yugoslavia -- Todor is a soldier, a factory worker from northern Serbia who volunteered to come here to Kosovo and defend it for his country.

    He knows his war is about to end. But in this blasted, burned-out village, where Serbian soldiers keep guard from inside destroyed Albanian houses and shops, he wondered Wednesday whether the outcome was worth the price, to his own comrades and to the Albanians of this southern Serbian province.

    "I'm angry about how it's ending," he said, rubbing his hand along his dirty blond beard. "This should have been done better. A lot of people have died for nothing. And I believe that in four or five years, no Serb will still be living in Kosovo."

    Todor is 30, with a wife and daughter, Tijana, 7, and he asked that his full name not be printed. He was waiting at a military checkpoint here, near a large Albanian business, smashed and looted, that now bears a spray-painted inscription: Hotel Serbia. Bricks are piled in front of a broken window, creating a sniper position.

    No civilians are left here. A helmeted soldier watches from the balcony of a nearby house. Like every house here, it is burned out, its roof gone. He waves an informal salute as trucks of soldiers move past, turning onto the Malisevo road, which does not run out of Kosovo, but toward the fighting.

    Kosovo is where the Serbian national consciousness is rooted and where its cultural treasures mostly lie. For the Yugoslav army its loss, even against NATO's overwhelming firepower from the air, feels like a professional catastrophe.

    Another soldier said the army did not feel defeated. "People here feel that Milosevic capitulated because Belgrade did not have electricity for a few days," he said caustically, referring to the Yugoslav president, Slobodan Milosevic.

    That soldier and two of his colleagues, who did not give their names, were just returning from a couple days of home leave. Unlike Todor, they are local men, mobilized for duty with this war.

    Asked if it was hard to return to the front, one said: "It's not difficult at all. We have to defend Kosovo. Do they think we should give Kosovo back to them so easily?"

    They had heard little of the news and were skeptical that 50,000 NATO troops were about to pour into this little province.

    Nearly the only traffic here, as NATO planes still roared overhead, was military. Lapusnik is only 30 miles west of Pristina, on the road to Pec. But civilians, less worried now about being bombed, are now more frightened of renewed sniping by groups of Kosovo Liberation Army fighters, especially in the interlude between full-scale war and NATO-led occupation.

    Asked if the snipers had reinfiltrated Kosovo, these soldiers said they suspected that the guerrillas, existing in such small bands, had never left, but simply picked up their arms again as the war appeared to be ending.

    On the road there are endless reminders of the peculiar horrors of this war. Near the crossroads town of Komorane, an Albanian cafe called Kosovar is burned out, its red metal Coca-Cola sign the only spot of color against the smoky charring of fire.

    Two red tractors, also burned, their tires melted or missing, sit at crazy angles to the road, pushed out of the way. A pile of clothes lies by the roadside, filthy and twisted, near a mattress that presumably fell off the tractor of a fleeing or expelled Albanian.

    At Komorane military trucks with soldiers turn north toward Banjica and Srbica, where Todor and two comrades were wounded on April 7 in a firefight with members of the Kosovo Liberation Army, "They made an ambush, a horseshoe, and shot us," Todor said, describing how his unit was surrounded on three sides.

    He pulled back his sleeve to show where a rifle bullet passed through his tricep. The wound still looks raw, as red as beefsteak, but he says it bothers him less and less.

    Asked what he thinks when he looks at the destruction around him, at the ruins of the lives and dreams of Albanian civilians, he went silent for a moment. "This is about pushing the people back," he said. Back how? "Historically." He shook his head. "We ought to be able to live together. I don't really understand why this happened."

    Is he ready to go home? "If I'm ordered to go," he said. Does he blame Milosevic? "I'm not a political person," he said. "Serbs should defend their country."

    Closer to Pristina, however, there are more signs that the army is preparing to move out of Kosovo. A few military trucks are bearing equipment and men back toward Serbia proper. In Pristina itself, outside apartment buildings, some military trucks were being loaded Wednesday with the furniture and household goods of officers.

    Serbs are anxious about the end of this war and the return of the Albanians and the guerrillas. They are not afraid of mistreatment by NATO forces, but they have a hard time believing that NATO will demilitarize and pacify the very fighters for whom this fearsome bombing campaign was waged. They do not regard NATO as neutral, and they believe that NATO countries support Kosovo's independence under the rule of the Albanians for NATO's own, mysterious ends.

    But in the last few days, the sharp panic over the sudden decision by Milosevic to accept NATO's terms has begun to recede, and many Serbs now say that they owe it to future generations to remain in Kosovo. Before the war, perhaps 180,000 Serbs lived in Kosovo, compared to some 2 million Albanians.

    Numbers are unobtainable, but some Serbs have already left Kosovo, and others will certainly go. Already, because of the war and the bombing, many wives and children of Serb men had left the province, and they will not soon return.

    "Some of these families already have one leg out of Kosovo," said one respected Serb journalist here, Milivoje Mihajlovic. "It may be easier to lift the other foot." That will be particularly true of Serbs who live in predominantly Albanian villages or cities, like Podujevo.

    "The dilemma for people here is to decide either to change the way they live or where they live," Mihajlovic said. "There has been too much damage now for things to be the same."

    Still, under the sponsorship of the local Serbian orthodox bishop of Rasca and Prizren, named Artemija, and of the local Serbian Resistance Movement, a small rally was held Wednesday at Pristina's sports center to urge Serbs to stay in Kosovo.

    About 1,000 people came in the hot sun to the meeting, called the People's Zbor, a traditional village council, to listen to the bishop and to a Serbian community leader, Momcilo Drajkovic.

    Drajkovic told the quiet crowd that the local authorities had urged him not to hold the meeting, "that they will solve all this for us." But it is important, he said, "that we as a people continue to organize ourselves."

    He cited Artemija, saying: "If we leave here, we will never have the right to come here again. We will not leave our holy Kosovo and Metohija," the formal name of the province, "to anyone." Metohija means "land of churches" and refers to the western part of the province, near the Albanian border, where many of the church's finest monasteries and holy sites are located.

    "We will not be led to be sacrificial lambs on our own doorsteps," Drajkovic said. He called on the U.N. Security Council to protect the Serbs. But his only mention of the Albanians was no apology, but an indirect plea. "For those who want revenge on us, revenge is not an answer," he said. "Peace cannot be achieved through mutual revenge."

    A few policemen listened but did not interfere. The crowd clapped softly a few times, but moved away quietly, still anxious.

    Tatjana Surlic, 40, who works at the local army officers club, said she thought the rally was a positive step. "Serbs should organize ourselves to stay," she said. "We have nowhere else to go. With all the damage in Serbia, too, where would we live or work?"

    She is less nervous than "a little angry," she said. "The honest working people here, who kept their honor, must stay and they want to stay."

    Moma Djokic, 42, has also been mobilized into the army. "NATO is fighting for the other side, for the terrorists," he said. "They're not interested in me." He, too, intends to stay where his family has lived for generations. "I'm not leaving this Kosovo alive," he said.

    He did have one request for NATO troops, however, and insisted that an American journalist take down his words. "I just ask the Americans and the others not to shut both eyes about the KLA."




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